Strut top mount came off and ended up replacing the strut top mount and the strut itself. The shocks (Tokico Illumina) have 100K miles on them, so installed old one that was laying around and it is fixed now. Need new rear brakes, bad front wheel bearings, bent front rim, alternator belt needs replacingįront passenger side shock was leaking and clunking. Rear sway links made creaking sound, dealership replaced. New bushings installed for aftermarket swaybar. Able to buy Mazda OEM parts from dealer at "shop rate". Excellent shop, labor charge about half dealer. Left front wheel bearing had been going out for some time. Right rear strut mount broke, needed to replace strut mounts, struts and sway bars links. Replaced struts, strut mounts and tie rods. Replaced both front wheel bearings, along with front springs. Wheel bearing replaced again Control arm replaced again If you think we should consider both struts, cost of repair with parts and labor is $460īoth Strut mounts and the passenger control arm with integrated ball joint was replaced. Since one strut broke, I split the cost of parts. Right rear strut clunking, needed to be replaced when the car was sold.īracket on strut where stabilizer bar link connects broke. Also replaced end links on front stabilizer bar. Replaced another wheel bearing, about a year old. But clunk I've been noticing in the front end is still there. Replaced both links. Shop found worn control arm bushings. All good now, aligned.ĭrove down a dirt road getting to cabin, bearing went. Same trip also destroyed the passenger side sway bar end link.įront left wheel bearing replaced after started making a loud noise during even the slightest turns over 20 MPH.Īnother wheel bearing. Another wheel bearing.įront left wheel bearing replaced again after two years and 26,000 miles. Replaced balljoint/control arm the boot was gone and the joint was freely wiggling around. Took car in for an alignment since I replaced suspension parts. Both rear ones had play so I replaced them. Someone suggested checking the sway bar endlinks for play. Hell I might get more for it in that condition vs a clean protege.Car was rattling over bumps. I'm not trying to build a "rally car" but I figure that with the Big ass tires i might as well go full retard and add PIAA lights, a light bar, lift, mud flaps, no muffler. and I was thinking if anyone has managed to swap springs on a protege to get it to lift a little more? maybe some of the guys up north have a "winter mode" where they tweak it? I've seen a few "rally" proteges set up so I was wondering if anyone had info on them. Small car, tires that are clearly to big for it. Once it was all on, I actually kinda liked the look. The Rear actually touch just a hair so I'm thinking of putting some spacers on just to get it off the perch. I bolted everything up and the fronts sit mm away from the spring perch on the strut. SO a buddy of mine gave me some free wheels, and a different buddy gave me some free tires.Ģ15 55 16 Tires. SO we decided that because my Wife has now decided that all curbs must die, I would make her car the IDGAF car. I'll be lucky to get $1000 after i paint it. on a Protege with 185K Miles and 4 Major accidents on its history. Having worked at a body shop I was able to pull the frame back into shape and get all the body panels to line up fairly well.īut to be honest I'm looking at like $1000 to finish the body panel alignment + paint. Ok so if you look at some of my Old posts you will see that my wife basically Totaled her protege a few years back.
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